To Xhiro Or Not To Xhiro, that is never a question….

I can’t remember if I spoke about the Shqiptar national pastime known as the xhiro in my last post. To xhiro is to promenade; it is to entertain and to be entertained. Everyone promenades, especially when the weather is gracious enough to yield a balmy evening. Here, the xhiro can be performed by sedate married couples, by female friends of all ages, by young men with their arms slung over shoulders, and by old men sporting densely woolen vests, meticulously mended blazers, and caps, one arm folded behind the back and the other linked with the companion. Couples xhiro only if they are married or publicly engaged. Friends of the same sex can link arms familiarly and affectionately, leaning on one another and speaking intimately as they progress slowly in tandem. Such public displays of affection are perfectly acceptable between friends, especially as homosexuality is widely denied in Albania. Not being heterosexual is still largely incomprehensible. So, affection for one’s friends is freely given and received. The xhiro is an opportunity to visit old friends, to be admired in all one’s finery, to admire others, to greet acquaintances, to contribute to the circulation of local news, and to take the evening air. The custom is a remnant of Communism, when other options for entertainment were virtually suppressed. The xhiro became a natural outlet for a people burdened by incredible hardship; it offers relaxation, escape, and opportunity for simple pleasures.